Category Archives: Chateau Bauduc

The Art of Leaf-Stripping

Nearly all the top Châteaux are at it, as are most quality-driven estates in Bordeaux.  The practice of effeuillage is not something one reads about on a back-label (not that there are many of those on top-class claret) but it’s an important job at this time of year. Over the last week – with the help of a dozen experienced seasonal workers – we’ve been busy removing the leaves from around the fruit zone, so that the bunches get a good airing for the rest of the growing season.  The general idea is that this will help the grapes to ripen over the next few months, with the added bonus that the risk of bunch rot is reduced.

The leaves are plucked away from the grapes on the cooler, morning-sun side of the row of vines at this stage, because sudden exposure might cause sun-burn on the grapes facing the mid-day and afternoon heat. Many top vineyards complete the job on the other side in early September when it’s slightly cooler, but that phase seems to be less critical. We’ll decide on how to play it then. Keep reading

Rick Stein’s New Seafood Restaurant

We took advantage of our week’s holiday in Cornwall to see one of our best-known and longest-standing customers, Rick Stein, and to have dinner at his new-look Seafood Restaurant in Padstow.  Rick has included our Chateau Bauduc Bordeaux Blanc as one of his ‘special selections’ on the front page of his wine list since our 2000 vintage, and the label sports his signature next to the Bauduc logo.

I had a brief chat with Rick, who was fully immersed in filming a one-off Christmas show and another series for the BBC with his old sparring partner, director David Pritchard.  They’ve worked together for donkey’s years, and I first met the affable, Rumpole-like David when they were filming Rick’s French Odyssey series during their Bordeaux pitstop in 2004.  He calls me Greg, for some reason, but, in his defence, he does meet a lot of people on their travels together.  Rick and Dave’s third BBC series exploring food and cooking outside Britain, having covered South West France and then the Mediterranean, will be set around Asia. Keep reading

A Wet Week in Cornwall

We must have picked about the worst week to go to Cornwall for a break, weather-wise.  From the 4th to the 11th July, it rained and rained, and then rained some more.  Each time we looked hopefully at the forecast, it seemed that the southwest was the blackest spot in England, with the occasional severe weather warning.  

I didn’t get a chance to go and see Bob Lindo at his Camel Valley vineyard, but I can’t imagine he was too thrilled either. It felt more like March, with chilly walks and strong winds, and we didn’t manage to get the children to a sandy beach, not even once.  

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Ronnie Scissorhands

Our new rogneuse arrived this week, complete with numerous spinning blades.  New to us, that is, after one careful owner and just twelve months on the road, allegedly.  It is immediately being put to good use, trimming the rows of vines after a team of mostly seasonal workers, or saisonniers, have lifted all the vines up through the training wires.  Our old machine could just about cope but it’s seen better days, not least during our first full season in 2000 when we bought it brand new.  (It should have lasted longer but the both the manufacturer and the distributor have closed down, so it’s tricky to get it fixed each time it goes wrong.)  We still have the really old, lethal one that we inherited but we can’t show it here because the inspecteurs de travail would close us down if they knew we still had it.  Even visitors to the vineyard exclaim ‘oh my god, what’s that?’ when they peer inside the tractor shed (all part of the longer, more exciting tour), but head boy Daniel is quite attached to it and, besides, he never throws anything away.  I should get him on to eBay.

Using the rogneuse (pronounced ron-years, in case you wanted to point one out on your next vineyard tour in France) is a highly skilled job, carried out this week by Hafid while Daniel works on one of the other tractors.  By far and away the most labour-intensive aspect though is the work by the saisonniers, lifting the branches of the vines up through the training wires, taking care not to damage the newly formed bunches at knee level. 

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A Wine Weekend in the Sun

Another weekend with one wine event after another.  On friday evening, after a snoop around the vineyards of Péssac-Léognan, I popped into Bordeaux to take a look at ‘Bordeaux Fête Le Vin’.  It was heaving with visitors, mostly enthusiastic amateurs, and it doesn’t surprise me that some 450,000 are reported to have attended this mammoth wine tasting, spread over four sunny days and warm nights from thursday to sunday.  The event was staged along the recently restored quays along the river Garonne, in the heart of the city and was, from what I could see, a big success.

Some friends who came for our Bauduc Bondholder dinner on saturday night spent more time at the Fête on friday than I did, and they really enjoyed it.  It cost them all of 16 euros for two, including a tasting glass each and more than enough vouchers to enjoy plenty of wine from different stands.  

Here’s Dan (below) proudly holding his keepsake – a handy carry case, complete with the glass inside and a natty shoulder strap.  

Our Bondholder dinner on saturday was a somewhat smaller event, which was lucky because our local chef pulled out at the last minute.  We managed to cobble something together in time, principally by roping Dan and Zella into helping us out in the kitchen in return for a bed for the night.  The dinner was memorable for the lovely, balmy evening, our Bauduc rosé cocktail beforehand and some interesting discourse between an academic, a surgeon, a shipping baron and the UK marketing director for Google. The latter came up with the best suggestion when we discussed what to buy godchildren and grandchildren as presents: domaine names (fullname.coms, not estates in Burgundy) and fine wine for laying down.  Later on, Hugh the surgeon talked about the importance of the Miami Breast Conference, but after too much Trois Hectares 05 red we couldn’t take him too seriously. Keep reading

Frost Damage but No Hail, Please

Yesterday was the fifth anniversary of the night we were badly hit by hail.  The evening of 24th June, 2003 lives long in the memory.  After a period of steamy hot weather, a hail storm swept through part of the region, starting in the Graves to the south west of us and petering out beyond St-Emilion to the east.  Hail on its own can be a bruiser but it’s the combination of hail and gail force winds that inflicts serious damage.  We lost half the crop in just a few minutes, and with it half our income for the year.  Some of our neighbours’ vines were wiped out, whereas Esme Johnstone’s Château de Sours, just five miles away, remained untouched. 

Ironically, we had cancelled our hail insurance policy the year before as the premium had rocketed, and we believed a local pundit who claimed that the geography and shape of the hillsides of Bauduc would force the winds around the estate and that we were unlikely to be hit in just such an event. This turned out, of course, to be complete tosh.

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La Gazette in La Poste

We hosted a Bondholder dinner here at the château on saturday night, and a family of Bondholders (that is, one with two generations of Bondholders) rented the farmhouse for the week. Unfortunately, they had to leave earlier than planned but were at pains to point out that it had nothing to do with our cooking. It was a pity, because the garden is glorious when the sun is shining, and the heated pool looks seriously inviting.

But, as it was now free, we put the house to good use. This is the week of sending out the Gazette, at long last, so the small task of stuffing nearly 4000 envelopes was carried out here. I think this may have to be the last time of sending out a personalised covering letter, now that Angela refuses to sign any letters, as she has a recurring problem with her shoulder and shows symptons of repetitive stress syndrome. As a result, the signing count was Angela 22, me 3867. Of course, we should use automated signatures, but I have an aversion to them. 

Download La Gazette No. 21 Summer 2008 as pdf (1.8mb)

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New AOC Rules: Forgive me for yawning

There are significant changes afoot with new rules surrounding the Appellation Contrôlée system. From the 1st July it’s all change: previous controls about guaranteeing the authenticity of a wine from Bordeaux are being replaced by, er, a brand new set of controls.  The changes are for the good, just like stopping drink-driving is for the good, but we’ll have to wait and see just how well the whole scheme is implemented and policed.

I was invited to what I thought was going to be a routine meeting this afternoon, between a few fellow vignerons and a Directeur from the Syndicat de Bordeaux.  I realised when I walked in to the Salle André Lurton in Grézillac that the session might go on for a bit longer than I had anticipated, as there were 200 people in the room and more arriving.  There was a choice of standing room only at the back, or a seat in the front row, and I realised my mistake in opting for the latter when the main presenter gave everyone a peep at just how many Powerpoint slides he was about to share with us all as he set up his laptop with the overhead projector. There was to be no escape.

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New Bauduc Website

We are delighted to launch our brand new Château Bauduc website at www.bauduc.com this week, which can be opened by clicking the big red button at the top of this page.  The site has been created mainly with our UK customers in mind, with a comprehensive online ordering system (Buy Wine) a key feature. 

We have had an online system in place for the past five years on our old site, but we felt that we needed to offer something a little more sophisticated.  

I’d really like to know your thoughts on the site – feel free to comment below or contact me.

The next time I hatch a cunning marketing plan, it might just be smarter not to try and design and write everything at the same time, at a time when there is so much to be done in the vineyard: new website, new blog, new Gazette newsletter, new Bauduc Bond offer, and so on.  The brain’s gone slightly mushy.

Bauduc in The Observer: Buy Direct for Value

Our thanks to Patrick Collinson of The Observer for his kind recommendation on how to save money by buying direct from a vineyard online, or rather Bauduc. Does anyone know of any other overseas vineyards that sell direct to people at home in the UK? Of course, you could order wine from a foreign vineyard and have it sent over, at some cost, and pay duty and VAT as it comes through Customs (that’s the law, folks). But does anyone do that, and do you get caught for the duty?